Veterinary Hospital in Wichita Falls, Texas - Colonial Veterinary Hospital PHoto of Girl with her Dog

Our pets give us more than love, without getting sappy about it, they give us their whole hearts. You’ve probably seen those quotes online that say our pets are only a small part of our lives, but we’re their whole world – it’s true. We see them grow from those limber puppy or kitten years into full family members who shared every bit of laughter, comfort, and chaos along the way.

As they get older, that love doesn’t go away, it just changes. They slow down a little, nap a little longer, and start needing our help differently. Their golden years (think of it as our “retirement” years. It’s that in-between space when we’re not young anymore, but not frail either. We’re in 60s and 70s – older, wiser, and still very much ourselves) are special. That’s when we give back by keeping them comfortable, happy, and surrounded by the same love they’ve always given us.

Now, when a pet goes into their “golden years” – like us – we have to make some changes. We have to tweak their diet, update their exercise routine, and keep their environment cozy. It’s not a lot of work. It’s simple. But it will make a world of difference.

These are the tips we can give you to make those golden years shine:

First: What Counts as a “Senior” Pet?

Remember, the golden years are the senior years, so what makes a pet be classified as a senior pet?

For starters, not all pets age at the same pace. A dog’s size and breed make a big difference, while cats tend to follow a more consistent timeline – mainly because they’re all about the same size.

Senior Dogs

  • Small breeds (under 20 lbs): Usually considered senior around 10 – 12 years old
  • Medium breeds (20 – 50 lbs): Around 8–9 years old
  • Large and giant breeds (over 50 lbs): Age faster and often reach senior status around 5 – 7 years old

Senior Cats

Cats tend to live longer than dogs.

  • Senior: 11 – 14 years old
  • Geriatric: 15 years and older – this is when age-related issues tend to appear more often in cats.

There isn’t a magic number or chart that says, “Okay, now pet is a senior.” You’ll just start to notice it with the slower walks, longer naps, and softer eyes. You know your pet better than anyone, and you’ll start to feel when it’s time to slow things down a bit.

Next: The Foundation of Senior Health with Regular Vet Visits.

As your pet gets older, you’ll start to notice a few more changes in their day-to-day life. Like we mentioned above, they’ll start to slow down, sleep a little more, or seem a bit stiffer after a nap and they do the “BIIIIIIGGGGG STRETCH!!!” you know what I’m talking about!  But, with that, you’ll also find yourself visiting the vet a little more often than you used to. That’s normal, it’s just part of helping them age comfortably and catching issues early.

Things like arthritis, kidney problems, heart disease, or even cognitive changes can creep in quietly before showing any obvious signs. That’s why we recommend switching from yearly visits to every six months when you start to notice those small changes.

During these visits, your vet will usually do what we like to call a “nose-to-tail check-up” – think of it like a 10-point inspection on your car, but for your pet. They’ll check joints, teeth, eyes, heart, lungs, and keep an eye out for any new lumps or bumps.

They’ll also run routine bloodwork and a urinalysis, which help catch things like kidney or liver disease, thyroid issues, or diabetes before your pet ever starts to show symptoms, etc.

And maybe the most important part… an honest conversation. You know your pet better than anyone. You NEED to mention even the small things you’ve noticed: sleeping longer, drinking more water, being slower to get up, or just seeming “off.” Those tiny details often make all the difference in catching something early.

Regular checkups and open communication with your vet can add years, but most importantly, a whole lot of comfort for your pet.

During that visit, you’ll also start discussing Nutritional changes.

Nutrition: What do We Feed Them Now?

I remember when I could go out for a basket of wings and wake up the next morning just fine. These days, it’s antacids before bed and vitamins with breakfast – B12 for energy, Vitamin D for something else, iron for this and that. Getting older means adjusting what we put into our bodies, and our pets are no different.

The only difference between them and us is… well… us. We’re the ones in charge of what goes into their bowl. That’s a big responsibility, and one of the most important parts of caring for a senior pet. As their metabolism slows and their digestion changes, their food needs to change with it.

For Senior Cats

We know that older cats do best when their diet supports energy, hydration, and lean muscle. Cats love to jump, and not just from the floor to the couch, but from the floor to the fridge, the counter, and anywhere else they shouldn’t be. Keeping them strong and lean helps protect those muscles and joints to prevent injuries.

  • High-quality protein: This helps keep muscles strong and prevents age-related muscle loss. They need this to JUMP and LAND safely (for lack of better terms).
  • More moisture: Wet food or a little added water helps support kidney and urinary health.
  • Balanced those calories: Some cats slow down and gain weight; others lose it. We can help you find the right balance for YOUR cat.
  • Flavor and aroma: We know cats are picky, but a little warmth can make food smell more inviting to those finicky senior cats.

For Senior Dogs

Your dog’s diet should focus on maintaining a healthy weight and keeping their joints happy. They’re not jumping up and down like a cat, but they do move a lot, and jump up and down from the couch, off the bed, chasing toys, or running for the doorbell. But let’s be honest… dogs aren’t exactly “graceful” when they land. All that jumping up and down adds up over the years, so weight management and the right nutrition can make a big difference.

  • Weight control: Extra pounds are hard on the joints and heart keep them light – NOT SKINNY – light.
  • Joint support: Look for foods or supplements with glucosamine, chondroitin, and omega-3s.
  • Easy digestion: High-quality, digestible ingredients help their bodies absorb more nutrients.

Two different pets. Two different species. Two different diets – so if you don’t know what to feed them, bring them by and we’ll be happy to take a look, run some tests, and provide you with a few recommendations.

Staying Active: Forcing the Movement? Does it Feel Good?

When it comes to staying active, I hear a lot of pet owners say things like, “Well, they’re not that active anymore.” Or, “They don’t really like to walk, theyjust sleep a lot” and say that’s why they don’t walk them. Honestly, that makes sense on the surface. If you pet is sleeping, why wake them up to take them on a walk?

But here’s the thing, we can’t lean into their joint pain or slow movements and let that become their daily lives. Staying active, even if it’s small, is what helps them feel good overtime. We have to look at our pets and encourage movement, even if it’s just short, easy sessions.

Just like we control their diet, we’re also in control of how much they move. Here is the important part: Movement at a softer, slower pace. I want you to think of it as moving with them, not pushing at them.

A few short walks a week, some light playtime, or even gentle stretching can make a big difference. The goal isn’t to tire them out, they’re not puppies anymore, it’s to keep them limber, healthy, and happy.

This brings me to my next topic – Home Environment.

Senior-Friendly Homes: How Can We Help Them at Home?

We hear our pet owners say this all the time: “They like to jump on and off the couch.” Or, “Our bed’s just tall, they’ve always jumped off.” Or even, “They’re slipping when they walk all over the place, but that’s just how our floors are.”

And yeah, that all makes sense it’s a house for Humans not for Pets. And they’re also right, your pets have probably done it for years without a problem. But little by little, day after day, those little things start taking a toll. That’s where we, as pet owners, come in. A few small changes to our homes can make a big difference for them.

We don’t have to fully change our home layout, that’s not what we’re recommending here, we’re just looking for small senior-friendly changes:

  • Orthopedic beds: They’re soft, think memory foam, we just want to give their joints some love and create a cozy resting spot – hard floors are uncomfortable.
  • Ramps or stairs: Make it easier for them to get up on the bed, couch, or into the car without having to jump up or down.
  • Non-slip rugs or mats: This will help them get traction on slick floors, and honestly this is helpful for us too.
  • Easy access to food and water: Raised bowls or a stable feeding area can help pets with neck or back stiffness. Lift up their bowls to the height of their elbows. We’re looking for chest area height.
  • Low-entry litter boxes: Perfect for older cats who don’t move as easily as they used to.
  • Routine and familiarity: Keeping furniture in place and sticking to a schedule helps pets with vision or memory changes feel safe.

These tweaks are not just to make life easier for them.  These tweaks are our way of noticing that things are getting harder for them. I don’t know if pets really understand that we’re helping them, but I like to think they feel it. And just in case they don’t, I still want them to be comfortable. Because that’s what love looks like in their golden years – quiet, thoughtful care.

Dog | Emergency Pet Care at Colonial Park Veterinary Hospital

You don’t have to be a vet to spot the telltale signs of separation anxiety. You’ve probably seen the symptoms before: When you grab the trash bag and your dog starts barking? When you pick up your keys and they look at you like, “Where are you going without me?!”  When their energy shifts the moment, you put on your shoes and say “Let’s go potty!”.

They know what’s coming, and it stresses them out… kind of like when you see the mechanic walking toward you with a clipboard and a pen. You just know it’s not going to be cheap.

Then you come home, and the evidence is there: Chewed furniture, shredded pillows, maybe even an accident on the floor. It’s easy to see that and think, “That’s a bad boy!!!” But what’s really happening is anxiety. This is how they cope with stress when they can’t reach you or understand why you left.

If I could talk to my dog in those moments, I’d probably say something like, “I’ll be back soon – I just have to go to work so I can buy you food, toys, and treats.” I want them to know I’m coming back. But since we don’t have that superpower, all we can do is be proactive and recognize the signs, understand what’s really going on, and help them feel safe when we’re away.

Anxiety v/s Bad Behavior Issues

Here is the “not always the case” phrase I hate using. Not all bad behaviors are signs of anxiety, sometimes a chewed-up shoe is just a bored afternoon. But, if the “bad behaviors” constantly happen when you’re away, that’s a good indicator that your dog may be suffering from Anxiety. How they show stress and anxiety will fluctuate and range from mild to extreme.

Here are a few things you might notice:

  • Destructive behavior: We’re talking chewing furniture or shoes, digging or scratching around doors and windows. Again, this could be them being “bad” if it’s a one or two-times situation, but if it happens often this is them trying to get back to you.
  • Excessive barking or whining: If your dog howls or barks the moment you leave, it’s usually not defiance. It’s panic. We’ve seen pet owners tell us that they want to buy a bark collar because their dog barks most, if not all, the time when they’re gone.
  • Accidents inside: Even the most house-trained dogs can start having accidents when they’re anxious – but I need you to pay attention to my pattern here: Once or Twice – bad dog behavior. Every other time you leave? Good indicator for stress and anxiety.
  • Pacing: Walking back and forth or in circles, especially near doors or windows, is a common sign of restlessness and stress for you to come back home. You see this a lot in your back yard when they pace the perimeter of your fence.
  • Escape attempts: Trying to break out of a crate or room, sometimes so intensely that they hurt themselves.
  • Physical signs: Shaking, panting, drooling, or refusing to eat when left alone.

If you’re seeing a mix of these behaviors, especially right after you leave or just before you come home, this is a likely separation anxiety issue, not misbehavior. This is not the time to punish; this is a time to manage and help.

Why Do Dogs Get Separation Anxiety?

Honestly, we don’t fully know why – and truth be told, we don’t even fully understand why humans get anxiety, much less dogs. It took close to 400 years for us to officially diagnose PTSD in humans. Dog Anxiety research and study began in the 1970s… we’re still learning. What we do know is that separation anxiety often develops after big changes or disruptions in a dog’s world. Some of the most common triggers that we know so far are:

  • Changes in routine: We’re not talking about waking up at 7 v/s 8, or eating at 6 v/s 5, etc. We’re talking about going back to work or school after being home for a long stretch.
  • Change in ownership or home: If going back to school or work was a shock, imagine a shelter dog or those who’ve been rehomed. Imagine finally feeling safe, and then everything changes again.
  • Trauma or bad experiences: Being left alone too long, loud noises, or even a rough kennel stay can stick with them.
  • Loss of a family member or another pet: Dogs grieve, too. Losing someone they love can make them more anxious or clingy.

So while we don’t truly understand anxiety to a T, we know that anything that shakes their sense of stability can shake their confidence, and that’s when anxiety can creep in.

How Can We Help a Dog With Separation Anxiety?

Helping a dog through separation anxiety takes time, patience, and a lot of consistency. The goal isn’t to “fix” them overnight, it’s to help them feel safe being alone again.

Change the Routine: I know, we just talked about how changes in routine can trigger anxiety. But what we’re talking about here are micro-adjustments, not major shifts. We humans love dramatic goodbyes… the hugs, I can’t wait to see you again, waving down the driveway, holding hands and hugging your loved one as your friends leave the home, the sappy sighs, and everything in between. But trust me… dogs don’t. Try to keep departures and arrivals calm and casual. The more of a “thing” you make out of leaving, the bigger deal it becomes for them.

A quick, low-key exit sends the message that everything’s fine, you’ll be back soon.

Desensitize the Departure Cues

Dogs are smart. They know the second you grab your keys or put on your shoes that something’s up.

Try to break that cue. Pick up your keys and sit down to watch TV. Put your shoes on and make dinner. Do those “leaving” actions without actually leaving. Over time, they’ll learn that those cues don’t always mean you’re walking out the door, and that helps reduce the panic. It won’t happen overnight. It will take time, but it’ll work! Trust us.

Tire Them Out (Physically and Mentally)

A tired dog is a calmer dog. Take them out for a good walk or have some playtime before you leave. This helps burn the nervous energy down. Buy them some puzzle toys, frozen Kongs, or simple scent games to keep their minds busy and redirect focus while you’re away.

When do I Call the Vet?

If you feel like you tried everything above, and your dog’s anxiety is still popping up, they’re hurting themselves, destroying things, or you just can’t make progress… it’s time to call your vet.

We can take a look at a few things, we’ll start with ruling out medical causes for accidents or potential distress / anxiety.

From there, we can look at possibly having your dog take anxiety medication or supplements.

If the problem is more on the behavior side, we can also look at recommendations to behaviorists if needed.

There’s no shame in asking for help. Anxiety is real for dogs, and managing it takes teamwork, patience, and a little time. But trust me, it’s worth it. When your dog reaches those golden years, you’ll love them even more for all the moments you helped them feel safe and loved.

Two veterinarians caring for a dog at Colonial Park Veterinary Hospital

The first time I saw my dog collapse, it was one of the scariest moments of my life. Saying my heart almost stopped would be an understatement – there’s just no way to fully describe that feeling. The best thing you can do in that moment, however, is to stay calm, act fast, and pay attention.

The second-best thing? Tell me how you did pull it off – because it will be stressful, and it will be scary.

Hopefully, if I can teach you what to look for, you’ll remember the three things that matter most:

  • Assess the situation
  • Provide immediate care
  • Get to your vet ASAP

I want to remind you, sometimes fainting or collapsing can be harmless, but it can also be a sign of something serious.

Step 1: Assess the Situation

What we’re looking for here is an “understanding” of what we’re dealing with. We start off with the basics:

  • Check for responsiveness: Pet or Human, we always start by calling their name, touch them gently. Do they respond? We want to see if they’re responding. The main thing we’re looking for here is whether or not they fainted, if they had a seizure, or if it’s something else entirely. Is their brain “okay” for lack of better terms.
  • Check their breathing: Watch their chest. Is it moving? Basically, are they breathing? And if they are, does it look normal? shallow? strained? That tells you how urgent it is to get them oxygen or to the vet.
  • Look for injuries: Any bleeding, swelling, or signs they might’ve hurt themselves when they went down? This one is going to depend on your knowledge. What were they doing before they collapsed? Were they running?
  • Look at your surroundings: Take in the whole scene. Is there blood anywhere nearby? Could there be something dangerous around? We’re looking for snakes, sharp objects, or spilled chemicals? And don’t forget to check the weather – if your dog was running around in 105° heat, they might be overheating. Look at their tongue – is it swollen or bright red? These small details can give you big clues about what caused the collapse.

Step 2: Provide Immediate Care

Once you’ve checked the basics, it’s time to act. What you do in the next minute or two can make a big difference. We’re working with short windows here – call us in an emergency and we can walk you through what to do as you drive to our location. The message I need you to understand is that you can’t wait. Sometimes fainting is harmless, but like I mentioned above, it can be a sign of something serious.

  • If they’re not breathing: Clear their airway if you can, see if there are any obstructions like a rock or a stick, and head straight to your vet or the nearest emergency clinic.
  • If they’re unconscious but breathing: Gently lay them on their side, keep their airway clear, and watch their chest for movement. Keep talking to them – your voice helps. We’re looking for breathing and heart beats (a pulse).
  • If there’s bleeding: Use a clean towel or cloth and apply steady, gentle pressure. Don’t press too hard – just enough to slow or stop the bleeding, then head to the pet hospital.
  • If it’s cold outside: Wrap them in a blanket to help them keep their body temperature up while you get ready to move them.

The goal here isn’t to fix the problem on your own, the goal is to keep your dog safe and stable until you reach the professionals who can help them.

Step 3: Get to Your Veterinarian

Once you’ve done what you can at home, the next step is getting your dog to the vet as soon as possible. Collapsing can happen for several reasons, so you need to bring them to us as fast as possible. When they’re here, here’s what we’ll be looking for when you arrive:

  • Heart issues: When the heart isn’t pumping enough oxygen to the brain, your dog can faint.
  • Breathing problems: Difficulty getting enough oxygen can quickly cause collapse.
  • Neurological issues: Things like seizures, strokes, or nerve problems.
  • Trauma: A hard fall or accident can send their body into shock.
  • Toxins: Eating something poisonous can cause sudden collapse.
  • Severe infections: Illness can quickly overwhelm their little bodies and weakness can hit fast.

Our entire goal when you’re dog is under our care is to get them to be stable and breathing comfortably. Once that’s under control, some of the tests we’ll do are:

  • Bloodwork and urinalysis to check organ function and hydration.
  • X-rays or ultrasound to look for internal injuries or abnormalities.
  • ECG (heart scan) to check heart rhythm and strength.
  • Neurological exam if it looks like a seizure or nerve issue.

Whatever treatment we end up providing you will heavily depend on the cause. It might be medication, oxygen, IV fluids, or surgery in more severe cases.

What matters most is getting your dog seen quickly. Early action can make all the difference.

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Seizures are complicated to explain, but in laymen terms, seizures happen when the brain glitches – think of it like a computer freezing or when you turn on a light and they start to flicker. For a few seconds (often under 2 minutes) your dog’s brain is firing all at once, and their body can’t keep up. That’s why they often fall over, start to shake, or look “gone” for a bit – their brain is trying to process too many signals at once.

Why that glitch happens is where we run into problems. It could be a once in a lifetime glitch, or it could become an actual health issue for your dog. Here are the most common reasons we see seizures in dogs:

  • Idiopathic Epilepsy: The most common, and it’s often hereditary. This means there’s no clear trigger, unfortunately, your dog got this passed down by their parents.
  • Toxins: Some of the dog patients that we see come from the times when they get into things like rat poison, antifreeze, or even some human meds like Ibuprofen or ADHD medications. Sometimes, there’s no lasting damage, it’s a one-time thing. But… with a high enough dosage, it can cause organ or brain damage that leads to recurring problems.
  • Metabolic Problems: Liver or kidney disease can really mess with blood chemistry and trigger seizures.
  • Infections: Viruses, bacteria, or parasites like distemper or meningitis can cause seizures.
  • Head trauma: This is a big one, and its often times missed by a pet owner. We treat falls semi regularly – when the dog is playing on the couch and they fall and hurt their head. The accident can damage the head and cause seizures later in their life.
  • Brain tumors: These are hard to catch early on, if we don’t have regular visits, brain tumors or growths that press on the brain can disrupt normal brain activity and cause it to “glitch” in a way that can cause a seizure.

There are several other ways that a seizure could happen. Things like low blood sugar, heatstroke, or extreme stress can trigger a one-off episode. Regardless of the reason, what I want to get across is that the brain glitches, sends out a bunch of signals, and a seizure is triggered.

What do You Do? – Keep Them Safe.

When your dog is having a seizure, your job is to keep them safe during the episode. There is nothing you can do, without prescribed medication, to stop it. When a seizure starts, if you try to stop one, this can actually make things worse. It can hurt your dog or can hurt you in the process. That’s why we tell our dog owners that your goal during a seizure is to help protect your dog while it’s happening and keep them safe until it’s over.

So, your job is to do the following:

  1. Clear the area. Move furniture, cords, and anything sharp away so they don’t hit anything.
  2. Keep them on the floor. If they’re up on a couch or bed, gently guide them down so they don’t fall.
  3. Don’t touch their mouth or face. They won’t swallow their tongue, but they could clamp down hard if they spasm and bite their tongues.
  4. Keep it quiet and calm. Turn off lights. Turn off the TVs. Turn off loud noises. Try to stay calm to help them recover faster.
  5. Time it. If it goes over five minutes, that’s an emergency. Grab a towel or blanket, load them safely in the car, and head straight to the vet.

After the episode is over, more than likely your dog will be confused, tired, and may wobble if they walk. You need to make sure they’re quiet, calm, and make sure they’re not going to jump up or down from the couch. Keep the area clean and clear. You don’t want them to bump into furniture or stairs. Don’t try to rush food or water until they’re fully alert again. When they’re fully alert, bring them to us for a checkup.

What Happens at the Vet?

The first thing we try to do is figure out if your dog is stable. We need to make sure they’re breathing normally. We need to make sure their heart rate is steady and their body temperature is safe. Then we’ll ask you about what you saw and how long it lasted. From there, we’ll usually run a few tests to figure out the cause. We’ll talk to you about a few of the tests we’ll check for. These checks include:

  • Bloodwork and urinalysis: This test checks for organ issues, infections, or imbalances.
  • Neurological exams: This usually checks at reflexes, coordination, and nerve responses.
  • MRI or CT scan: Helps us see inside the brain for anything unusual, like swelling or tumors.

What we’re trying to find with all these tests is figure out why it happened and make sure your dog stays safe and healthy. Once we know what’s behind it, we can talk about therapy or treatments like seizure medication, diet changes, or other specific care depending on what we find.

 

A happy dog at Colonial Park Veterinary Hospital

We normally write articles to help educate people on possible causes, treatments, and when to call a vet. On this article, however, I need to be honest with you -You need to take your dog to a veterinarian as fast as possible.

I know that this is going to be scary. In the years that we’ve been in helping our dog parents, I have yet to see a parent who has been able to handle seeing their dog throw up blood.

Seeing blood is tough to witness, and your mind immediately goes to the worst place.

I get it and that’s why I need you need to know: It’s serious, and your best move is to call your vet right away.

Even if we don’t find anything serious and the result is nothing more than a scare, blood in your dog’s vomit is still something that needs to be checked as fast possible.

There are a number of reasons a dog will throw up blood. These reasons could that they’ve got an upset stomach or they chewed or swallowed something that scratched them up inside. Sometimes, blood in their vomit is something that’s actually serious. They could have ulcers, infections, or even something toxic they got into. When it comes to blood in their vomit, I assure you, you can’t tell what it is just by looking at it.

If it happens, grab your phone and call us up (940) 691-0261. If you can, bring a little bit of what they threw up in a plastic bag or container – yeah, it’s gross, but it can really help us figure out what’s going on faster.

When you get here, we’ll check them over right away and may run a few quick tests. We’re looking at bloodwork, x-rays, maybe an ultrasound. We need to find the cause. Once we know what’s behind it, we’ll start treatment immediately, whether that’s medication, fluids, or in some cases, surgery.

So here’s the short version:

If your dog’s vomiting blood – don’t wait. Call us. We’ll take it from there.